Chanthaburi Gemstone Market
Chasing Spessartite: Two Days in Chanthaburi
What It's Really Like to Buy Gemstones in Chanthaburi, Thailand
Read it before you try
In the first photo: the modest result of two days' work at the Chanthaburi market — worth about the same as a Toyota Camry in Thailand. We'd noticed rising demand for vivid spessartite, and based on our previous trips, decided to look for it in a small town 250 kilometers from Bangkok. Chanthaburi once had active sapphire and ruby mines; today it's where rough stones from all over the world are brought for cutting and treatment. The town has several large factories, but you'll find a cutting wheel in almost every other house. This is also where sapphires and rubies are heated, and "cooked" in glass and various chemicals.
The market stretches across a few small streets, and working here feels more like fishing than gathering: you don't walk around — you just sit and wait for someone to bring you the stone you're after. You can rent a table with a lamp and basic gemological tools, or give the space's owner a small percentage instead. In the second case, they'll help you write up your request in Thai and bring you the first sellers. Officially, only Thai citizens are allowed to sell stones here. There are also small gem shops in town, but they're really more for buying souvenirs.
So — we put together our "wish list," had it translated into Thai, and almost immediately found ourselves surrounded by a crowd of sellers. Everyone pushes past everyone else, thrusting a stone at you. Dozens of hands, endless hundreds of stones. Imagine going shopping for a shirt, but instead of a pleasant stroll through the stores, every consultant in the mall rushes toward you — and along with shirts, they're carrying bags, kids' sneakers, even a pair of skis: "I know you're here for a shirt, but look at these wheels, and the price is amazing, just for you." After about 20 minutes you're already tired; after 40, you can barely tell colors apart — and the work has only just begun. The psychological pressure is intense, and it's very easy in that state to buy something you don't need at completely the wrong price. Each hour brings "better" stones, and by the second day the piles give way to single stones of the right size and quality — but not many stones make it that far.
The market stretches across a few small streets, and working here feels more like fishing than gathering: you don't walk around — you just sit and wait for someone to bring you the stone you're after. You can rent a table with a lamp and basic gemological tools, or give the space's owner a small percentage instead. In the second case, they'll help you write up your request in Thai and bring you the first sellers. Officially, only Thai citizens are allowed to sell stones here. There are also small gem shops in town, but they're really more for buying souvenirs.
So — we put together our "wish list," had it translated into Thai, and almost immediately found ourselves surrounded by a crowd of sellers. Everyone pushes past everyone else, thrusting a stone at you. Dozens of hands, endless hundreds of stones. Imagine going shopping for a shirt, but instead of a pleasant stroll through the stores, every consultant in the mall rushes toward you — and along with shirts, they're carrying bags, kids' sneakers, even a pair of skis: "I know you're here for a shirt, but look at these wheels, and the price is amazing, just for you." After about 20 minutes you're already tired; after 40, you can barely tell colors apart — and the work has only just begun. The psychological pressure is intense, and it's very easy in that state to buy something you don't need at completely the wrong price. Each hour brings "better" stones, and by the second day the piles give way to single stones of the right size and quality — but not many stones make it that far.
The stones. The overwhelming majority are low quality — pale, poorly cut, or simply unattractive. This makes the selection process much harder: you start paying attention to stones you'd never even glance at in ordinary circumstances.
The prices. They're random, and often noticeably higher than in Bangkok itself. But if you know the market well and can negotiate, there's still a real chance of a good buy.
The offer. Once you hear a price, as a buyer you can walk away or make a counteroffer. But any offer, once confirmed by the seller, obligates you to complete the purchase. That's how the whole stone trade works — and refusing means an inevitable hit to your reputation.
The prices. They're random, and often noticeably higher than in Bangkok itself. But if you know the market well and can negotiate, there's still a real chance of a good buy.
The offer. Once you hear a price, as a buyer you can walk away or make a counteroffer. But any offer, once confirmed by the seller, obligates you to complete the purchase. That's how the whole stone trade works — and refusing means an inevitable hit to your reputation.